TRIP TO PATTANI

After the Chinese New Year bomb blast, despite all the negative response and advice, I decided to go with a “long time no see” hometown friend Phil, to visit Pattani, the Muslim centre of the South.

The night before leaving for Pattani, we were briefed and cautioned by a friend who is a high ranking government official based in Pattani. Having such a lovely moment with his family around at the beautiful beach of Songkhla, our two hours conversation were mostly centered around the situation in Pattani. The description was saddening but interesting and provided us new insights. It was like listening to the life of someone from another planet!

After all the discouraging remarks of our trip to Pattani the next day, I decided to take the risk as Phil promised to take care of me should anything happen . J
I was getting excited and a little uneasy as our car was approaching Pattani. We stopped by a road side stall selling sea coconut. Asking about the situation in Pattani, the trader seemed reserved and reluctant to answer our questions. It was the first time I took the fresh sea coconut and the sea coconut juice, right here in Pattani.

Equipped with a borrowed bullet proof jacket, I left Phil in the car to have a quick tour and take snapshots of the tourist attractions- The beautiful Pattani Central Mosque, The ruined Kru Se Mosque, the Shrine of Chao Mae Lim Ko Nieo.

The Pattani Central Mosque/The ruined and cursed Kru Se Mosque

The Shrine of Chao Mae Lim Ko Nieo at the road side/The closed candle shops


Pattani is popular for its annual Chao Mae Lim Ko Nieo Fair which was to be held in 1-7 March. The annual fair pays homage to the Goddess Cho Mae Lim Ko Nieo with a colourful procession, walking on fire and swimming across the river near Dechanuchit Bridge. According to the traders around, in the past there would be at least 80 to 100 tour buses each day bringing thousands of worshippers to the fair each year. However, there was hardly any bus now.

We also drove around the town to have a feel of the atmosphere. Contrary to what I thought that there would be a lot of Islamic structural buildings, the town seems quite modern and well developed, though a little quiet. It even has more Chinese New Year decorations than in Betong.

The quite Chao Mae Lim Ko Nieo and the quite dried seafood stalls

Pattani town/One of the CNY decorations in the town

The next day before saying good bye to this town, we were attracted by a bird competition crowded with thousands of people with beautiful cage hanging in the big compound area. As usual, I get excited about new things and couldn’t help to join the crowd, asking questions and taking pictures until the driver rang and advised me not to stay too long. Phil told me that I was the only lady among the crowd.

Before coming, Phil assured me that it would be an exciting and unforgettable journey. Indeed it was, but no matter how normal it seems and how exciting the journey, we couldn’t help the feel of uneasiness and tension in our heart. I’d opt not to come again!

One of the bird competition sites

(This blog was originally posted on 16 March 2007 under another blog title.)

BETONG IS ROARING

Sadly to say that living in Betong for years, I have become inured to the insurgency in Southern Thailand. They are considered as “accidents” instead of real threats. The riots in the Southern provinces seem to have little influence on Betong. Betong, known as the “Town of Sparrows” and “City of Midst-Beautiful Flower”, is
always praised for its cool weather, its greeneries, its harmonious multi-racial and multi-cultural society and its peacefulness.

In the midst of the insurgency in the area, Betong is developing well in its own pace and attracted tourists from all walks of life. Visitors came to Betong not only for the entertainment, but also for its historical and cultural attractions. In the past three years, the Chinese International Education Center project alone had attracted thousands of visitors from various Chinese clan associations, educational organizations and press media from the neighbouring area and other countries.

Two weeks ago, there was an anniversary procession of temple sculptures organized by the highest Chinese Authority in Betong - the Chong Fa Foudation. It was filled with sound of crackers, joy and hope for a prosperous Chinese lunar year.

Today, there was a procession too. A procession filled with sadness, anger and roaring.

The tragedy of insurgent ambush on a shuttle bus (from Betong heading to Hadyai) in Yaha district had shaken the peacefulness in this town. Eight innocent civilians had been killed, including three students accompanied by parents on their way to take their examination in Hadyai.

The tragedy indicates that the unsafe zone in Southern provinces is slowly expanding and its effects and threats are spreading, should the situation not be controlled. It is not only the problem of Southern provinces, it is the concern of everybody who lives in this land, who loves and find hope in this land.

(What did the students do wrong? Why did they have to be murdered?)

Betong is a small town, news and word spread fast, be it good or bad, true or fake. These last two days, the basically tolerant and submissive Thai started to speak out…

Why don’t the government focus on current problems instead of digging mistakes of the past? Why was the government spending time and effort in finding faults of the ousted PM instead of channeling the manpower and resources to help solve the many problems in this country?

Why don’t the government come out with solid plans to help the 500 redundancies caused by the rubber factory burning down in Yala district? Someone from Chiang Mai was also saying that people in the North were suffering as their OTOP products have no more market. They will soon rush to the big city to find a living… These are all sources of potential social problems…

I hope that their voices were loud enough to be heard and strong enough to move the relevant parties to take appropriate actions.

Left (How can we live together? We can’t go on with our daily life.)
Right (What is the government doing? What is more important than preserving our homeland?)

Left ( What is the government doing - the land will be depleted.)
Right (These bastards kill even children and women.)

(This blog was originally posted on 16 March 2007 under another blog title)

BETONG TO HADYAI BY MALAYSIAN ROUTE

Pass by Baling Hill, the limestone outcrops in Baling Town, a little town famous for the 1955 peace talks between Malaysan Communist Party and the Government

After the tragedy of the van ambush, more and more Betong folks are going to Hadyai via Malaysia. Currently there is a shuttle bus traveling from Betong to Hadyai every day which costs 260 baht per trip. It is usually full and one has to make early reservation to get a seat.

I travel to Bangkok quite frequently, either for work or to catch an international flight from Bangkok to other places. As it takes only 1 ½ hour’s drive to Penang International Airport, I used to fly Air Asia from Penang to Bangkok. However, a few delay experiences have caused me to reroute by taking a flight from Hadyai International Airport. Nevertheless I hardly took the Yala route to Hadyai, but used the Malaysian route instead. Firstly being a security reason and secondly, to avoid the notorious winding road from Betong to Yala, which made me very sick every time.

It takes about 3 to 3 ½ hours driving from Betong to Hadyai Airport. Presently there is a new road under construction and once completed, it is expected to shorten the journey by at least 30 minutes.

As a frequent traveler, staying in the car for three to four hours is usual for me and it is the time for me to look at the view, to meditate, to rest and to sleep. Usually half of the journey I’d just be lying down on the back seat and zzzzz….

The route to Hadyai passes some small towns, villages, industrial zone and paddy fields. As Betong is a small valley town surrounded by mountains, one can only have short distance views and a slow drive. Therefore, speeding along the expressway with beautiful scenery passing by and viewing the vast paddy fields becomes a pleasurable experience. I really like the view of vast paddy fields alongside the expressway. Though they are not boundless like those in Cambodia, it is nevertheless the view one will long for when living in Betong town for too long!

Half way/The North-South Express Way

Paddy fields alongside expressway/The Malaysian Immigration Checkpoint

Leaving Malaysia and entering Thailand

(This blog was originally posted on 23 March 2007 under another blog title. )

TRIP TO KHOK CHANG

Khokchang township surrounding by hills
Unexpectedly, I had to take the Betong-Yala highway to visit a new friend Ju, Mayor of Khok Chang, a small township 60 km away from Betong, half way to Yala.

Just after I got into the car, I was told that there were two gun shootings in a place in the same district, Than To. My other three friends in the car were equipped with either bullet proof jacket or a gun and I had only an umbrella! Did I feel the tension?! Well, thanks to the road condition which is very winding for almost in its entire stretch, I could only feel car sick.

Ju is beautiful and gentle, a little younger and smaller than me. The others address her as “Than” but she said I could call her by her nickname. I was a little shocked when I was first told that she was a Mayor. She seemed so young, gentle and friendly. Ju finished her tertiary education in Hadyai and was helping in her family’s grocery store before running for election. She still helps in the grocery store after work and during weekends if not on duty.

I was even surprised when she told me that her municipality had 16 councilors, but only 1500 voters and about 2000 population, almost all are Thai Buddhist. In fact, Khok Chang is a Thesaban tambon, the lowest municipality level. To qualify as a village municipality, an area needs a gross income of at least 5 million baht, a population of 5000, a population density of 1,500 per km², and the consensus of the majority of the population of the area. However, Khokchang is among those many places which were converted into township municipalities in May 1999, even though they did actually not meet the above qualifications.

Right most: The mayor/The shops

After a sumptuous lunch treat in a hut restaurant, which is the best in the town, Ju brought us to visit the township, made up of only a few rows of shop houses. In the past, I have passed this town several times but never knew that there was also a beautiful waterfall surrounded by lush green forests and a big lake with hills in the distance, which is part of the well known beautiful Bang Lang Dam in Southern Thailand. If not for the unfavourable situation in Southern Thailand, I am sure these two attractions would draw a lot of visitors.

Part of the waterfall/Having Fun

While the others were discussing about the potential tourism plan, I couldn’t help to ask one of the boat owners to take me for a short boat tour. I was told that he lived in a village called Nasai, about 30 minutes boat ride from Khokchang and came to Khokchang only once a week to buy some necessities.

The beautiful lake/Unloading of smoked rubber sheets

The short boat ride reminded me of my birth place, a small river town in Sarawak (East Malaysia, Borneo Island) where my family lived till we moved to Sabah, before I went to school. Our orchard and house were along a very big river where boat was one of the means of transport. There were a lot of logs floating from upstream and my mum used to wash clothes on one of those logs. My brothers and sisters with other neighborhood kids liked jumping into the river and having fun. As a little girl, I could only watch them…

(This blog was originally posted on 10 April 2007 under another blog title)

CHAT WITH ARMY

Rest and relaxed in a nice environment
The mixed-cultural design guardhouse

In Malaysia, I rarely see soldiers, let alone chatting with them. In Thailand, especially in Southern Thailand, the soldiers are commonly seen. Today, after my shooting lesson, I walked across the road with a friend to chat with the soldiers. The weather was cool and they were relaxed.

I asked a few questions like about their clothing and their daily life in Betong. They were very friendly and answered me patiently. According to the soldiers, they are off duty for 15 days for each 45 working days. Many of them will go home during their off days and of course, they bear their own traveling expenses.

According to the army officer, conscripts are entitled to two sets of uniforms per year while regular cadres have to purchase their own uniforms. The material for the uniforms are bought from a government owned textile factory. I found the material of good quality, soft and comfortable, different to those fake uniforms sold in the market which are hard and hot to wear.
The friendly soldiers

The armies carry M16 rifles and each riffle carries 30 bullets. The bullet proof jackets they wear seem bulky and heavy. I was shown the basic stuff they carried: 4 packs of extra bullets, walkie talkie and a flashlight.

Under Thai constitution, all Thai males are required to register when they reach 18 years old but are not liable for compulsory service until they reach twenty-one. At 21 those who have not undergone reserve training are subject to a draft. Volunteers are subject to six to eighteen months service depending on their education while those chosen at random are subject to twenty-four months full-time service. Students are allowed deferments until they have graduated.

Tu, 23, (middle in the above picture) was chosen by conscription and had another 6 months to go. According to Tu, should he opt to reenlist, he can continue his service if permitted, on a yearly contractual basis up to 5 years. If he opts not to reenlist, he will be released and placed on unassigned reserve status for an additional twenty-three years. During this period of reserve service he is subject to recall whenever a need arises. However, he said he had no intention to continue as he prefers to work elsewhere.

Currently there are about 200 army personnel stationed in Amphur Betong, under the leadership of the Commander of the Fourth Army Area. Soldiers don’t come to Southern Thailand alone; they brought with them a lot of stories….

Some locals complain that many inductees are so ignorant. While they are stationed in Southern Thailand, they bought pork which was not properly wrapped and walked around, not considering local custom and the feeling of locals.

The soldiers also had some romantic encounters which resulted in unpleasant situations. They are tall and handsome and attracted local girl students… Some of them also being taken care of by the affordable and lonely women, which may be a lot older than them…

(This post was originally posted on 28 April 2008 under another blog title.)

FUEL ANXIETY

After all the roaring, crying, protests of the Southerners, the government seems incapable of controlling the restive situation which is getting worse. The violence has been escalating and the effects and threats are spreading. On and off there are cases of road blocks, not only causing inconvenience to the daily life and business operations, but also causing people to be in a constant state of anxiety.

Being located in the southern tip of Thailand, the only access route from other parts of the country to Betong is through the 410 Highway. Therefore, Betong is unavoidably affected should there be any incidents on the highway. Road blockage means cutting off the supplies of food and other goods to Betong.

Since Thursday evening, hundreds of Muslim women and children blocked the highway, demanding release of arrested suspects and withdrawal of paramilitary rangers. Hundreds of Buddhists also took to the streets, demanding the Muslims end the blockage, protesting the government policy of reconciliation and demanding the rangers to stay. Today is the third consecutive day and while I am writing (5 May 2007 23;30) the road block still continues.

Due to the of transportation break down, Betong is currently short of fresh vegetables, seafood, fuel, construction materials etc. Today, a lot of people are rushing to the petrol stations in Betong to fill their tanks. There are three petrol stations in Betong town, two were closed temporarily due to fuel sold out in the afternoon while one closed in the evening. One of the owners told me that normally the oil truck will come three times a week and the last time was on Wednesday. People are rushing to the petrol stations in case the road block continues….

Most southerners are disappointed and dissatisfied with the government reconciliation policy; especially amnesty to be given to those who pleaded guilty.

I miss the weekends where I could drive along the countryside. …I miss the peacefulness…I am tired and sleepy now and I am going to bed. When I wake up, I hope it will be a bright day. I pray and hope…

(This blog was originally posted on 8 May 2007 under another blog title. ) betongbabe blog site)

TANGERINE ORCHARD TOUR

Abundant yield

Almost everyday there are news of killings and bombings in the South. Though Betong is considered a green area, to be precautious, I tried not leaving too far from town if not necessary. This weekend, I decided to drive to the suburb with a friend to temporarily escape from the heaviness in the air.

As I had never drove a 4-weel drive, I was very excited when my friend allowed me to drive the rather new Fortuna 3000cc 4-WD. I reckoned I could handle it confidently, as it is auto-geared.

As usual, we passed by the rubber plantations, the orchards, the houses and other greenery and finally stopped by the factory in a very large Shogun orange orchard.

The orchards

Shogun orange or tangerine is a widely known and popular fruit in Thailand. Betong is popular for its quality tangerine. The different sized orchards cover a total area of more than 8, 000 rai of land. It is said that Betong produces more tasteful and sweeter tangerine because of its weather and natural water. In Betong, the quality tangerines are sold between 60 Baht to 80 baht per kilogram depending on the grading or season. However, it can fetch up to 120 baht per kg in other parts of Thailand.

Though Betong is famous for its tangerine, I only bought as a gift and received as a gift. I have never bought tangerine for self-consumption as it is known that tangerine are sprayed with a lot of chemical fertilizers. We were always advised to wash the fruits before peeling with hands. Today, after looking at the tangerine processing, it eased some of my worry. The whole process involves cleaning, drying, sizing and packing in plastic containers for delivery to other parts of Thailand.

Washing/Drying

Sizing/Ready to be delivered

Due to the geographical nature of Betong, most of the tangerines here are planted in hilly areas. After the factory visit, my friend and I started our orchard exploring adventure. The orchard is very big and the one way road is very bumpy. We stopped occasionally to enjoy the scenery and to take pictures.

As I drove higher and higher up the hill I was getting uneasy. I missed the place for turning around my car and I could only drive higher and further. When we finally reach a place where I could reverse the car, I had to ask my friend to take over, as I was too nervous and panicky because of the height. However, my friend kept saying there was plenty of space and encouraged me to try on my own…The encouragement and comfort was in vain, unbelievably I couldn’t even move my leg. I was just too scared and finally burst into tears…

The way uphill, it’s truly high :-P

That ended my virgin 4-wd tour and the experience became the source of much laughter for my friends!

(This blog was posted on 18 June 2007 under another blog title.)